Getting The Fit Right: A Guide To Helmet Sizing

Getting helmet sizing right starts with a proper head measurement, taken with a soft tape around the largest part of the head, just above the eyebrows and ears. That figure points to a starting size, but it is only a starting point, since head shape varies as much as head size.

The trade off is scale. A workshop like this will never produce helmets as fast as a large factory, and that is treated as acceptable, since the aim is a considered, well finished helmet rather than the fastest one to market.

Sun and heat are the two things to watch for. Leaving a helmet on a dashboard or in direct sun for long periods will dull and eventually crack leather trim, so a helmet bag or a shaded spot makes a real difference over the life of the helmet.

Full face and open face helmets suit different kinds of riding, and the right choice usually comes down to where and how you ride rather than looks alone. A full face helmet covers the chin and jaw, giving more protection in a wider range of impacts, and tends to suit faster roads and longer distances.

A helmet is the most visible piece of riding gear, but it works as part of a wider kit rather than on its own. Gloves protect hands in a low speed drop, which is one of the most common types of fall, and a good pair balances grip and feel with real abrasion resistance.

A helmet workshop in London works on a smaller scale than a mass production line, and that shapes almost everything about how a Handcrafted Helmet shell gets made. Materials are chosen and checked by hand, shells are shaped and finished in small batches, and problems are caught by people who see every stage, not just a sensor on a line.